Saturday, August 3, 2013

hammocks to hiking to the Basilica


We are working on a month now since we first arrived, suitcases in toe, to Tres Rios. Now as we settle into our communities, I feel a level of comfort in knowing a few things about a few things. Spanish is still a real challenge. While I can catch on to things quicker than before, my host family at times ends up finishing my sentences when I start to stare off into space looking for words. They have been a key part in my adjustment here for sure.  Mother’s Day is coming up and for Ticos, it’s a national holiday, most people have off and more impressively so do we.  I feel pressured to do something nice but judging by the egg I made the other morning, maybe cooking isn’t going to be something I do. We have only one more day off and that is CR’s Independence Day coming up in September.  

                Last weekend was our site visit weekend, where they shipped all of us off to different corners of Costa Rica to visit with current volunteers. They sent me to Limon, the eastern most province that stretches from Nicaragua in the north to Panama in the south. It is the province that most people agree is a whole different world. It has a Caribbean feel and all the tropical diseases you have ever heard about. I left my house early for a Saturday and hopped a bus to San Jose. In efforts to meet up with my travel buddies, I strolled along, trying to look normal with my 3 day pack and gringa accent…I’m not one with an acute sense of directions but I’d like to think I can read street signs. It is important perhaps at this moment to explain how Ticos give directions. They go by commonly understood major landmarks, such as the museum, the clinica biblica, the pedestrian calle and so on. Having to make it to a random corner in the middle of the city turned out to be harder than I thought. Given that everyone here knows these landmarks and what 100 meters is, street signs are seldom, so much for finding it on my own. I stopped and asked two different people working in two different stores and they told me two different directions.

But after a phone call, I found my group and we made our way to the main bus terminal that would take the four of us to southern Limon. The landscape changed from rainforest and ear-popping mountain ranges to palm trees and flat lands. It got hotter and more humid and I’m pretty sure I didn’t dry out the whole time I was there. I was in Bribri, the last “big city” before you get into the indigenous territories. It was a hub for those who lived there to commute out, and for some to come to school, over an hour away. The bus dropped us off where the two main roads intersected and we meet with our volunteers and had pizza (again something done a bit differently here).  Because it was the weekend, not much was planned; some grocery shopping and a hike back to the house, passed the guy with a pig, the cow field and over some streams. That first night two of the next door neighbor girls came over for art hour in the art room/ guest room. The next couple days were peppered with work, waiting and play. I had the chance to visit a classroom at a close by escuela for 1-6th graders and play that origami fortune game. We also had a nice cafecito with a good friend of my volunteer. I was excited to be able to follow most of what was said, except of course when I was asked things directly…in which case my brain panics. We had the chance to meet up with other volunteers and my fellow trainees both nights as well, being so close to the beaches has its advantages, to be sure. In Calhuita we had our first sloth sighting accompanied by a monkey and raccoon sighting as well. The waves could give you a run for your money but it was good to be near water again. I was also grateful for the mornings of pancakes and French toast we had while I was there, as well as my mosquito net, even though I think it inspired a few bug nightmares.

My last day, the class we had prepped for ended up being cancelled. So we sat around for a few hours chatting through the early morning. Our bus left Bribri around 1030 and would not get back to San Jose until close to 5:30. There was a couple hours of traffic, a quick stop by the feds looking for fugitives or something and a check point for drug search. Needless to say it was a long day and I was ever so happy to come back home.

Since last weekend and this one, there was only 2 days of class/ training. This past Friday was a holiday as well and an annual pilgrimage to the Basilica in Cartago. It has roots in the Catholic story of a girl who found a stone virgin Mary, and no matter how many times she took it from the place she found it, it would reappear at its original location every time. A church was built on the site the stone would return to but burned down in a fire. People took this as a sign and the church was supposedly rebuilt on the land the girls house was. Every year close to half the entire population of Costa Rica take the pilgrimage, mostly on foot to visit this church and pay homage. This year, with the help and coordination of a few volunteers a good handful of us got to go partake in this significant cultural event. From San Jose to Cartago is about 22 kilometers or 15 or so miles. Although many people now-a-days still go for religious reasons, there are some who appreciate it more for its traditional and cultural significance, or do it for the exercise. There was a man we would see often who had been walking, at least from San Jose in his bare feet and when you arrive at the church there is the option to go the last 100 feet, on your knees, and even watching it is a humbling experience. We celebrated our accomplishment at a restaurant in Cartago before the ride back home and once again, I was ever so grateful for a shower that waited until I was almost done to tap out of hot water and to crawl into bed.

Indeed, a note to self, don’t leave things that have juices or open bags of peanuts in your back pack…ever ever ever ever…

Tuesday, July 23, 2013

Buenas!


For having prepared  myself to leave and work abroad for two years and for the almost year and a half application and assignment process, I slept very well the night before I boarded the plane to DC for Staging, the event that brought all 31 of us together. The year and a half leading up to this was spent thinking of the things I would be doing around the world, Kenya, Guatemala, Kazakhstan, who knew? Since February however, I had spent my time in disbelief and waiting for someone to tell me it was a typo or wrong email. Costa Rica you say? That’s just a joke, no one gets that lucky. 2 weeks in at this point and I still say its all a dream.

I left FLL around 8 am and said good bye to mom and dad at the airport, something I hadn't done in years. I made it safely into DC around 1130, all things accounted for. I took a cab ride with a man from Egypt and we talked about politics, the massive protests going on and how when people are oppressed for so long, they could and will fight back. He did most of the talking, rightly so. Being American I have realized, we only get worked up about short term injustices, and televise them for a few months before we all return to normal. Alyssa was the first person I met and we shared a room. We wondered around to get food before our official orientation began at 1230. We waited in line and struck up conversation with our soon to be colleagues Laura, Jessica and Kiara. Staging was a mix of getting to know you activities and explanation of expectations from our side of the fence as well as the Peace Corps outlined list. After staging, we set a time to meet back up and go out for dinner. As per usual I was late, but this time only by 2 minutes! Still, I was two minutes too late so I talked with my mom and Jason on the phone and pretended that they were with me as I sat at the restaurant/ bar in the hotel, ate a giant cheeseburger and had a glass of whiskey on the rocks before heading to bed; my final fling with my North American cuisine.  I don’t think I was sad at actually being alone. I think I was sad more at the concept of being alone the night before I leave the country. All's well that ends well, I had a nice chat with Alyssa before bed upon both our safe returns and we napped for a few hours before we had to meet downstairs for check out at 230 am…flight leaves at 6. The expression “hurry up and wait” never fails to be accurate in so many instances. Fading in and out of dreams, I remember thinking to myself, hey Marlee remember that day you are supposed to fly to Costa Rica, to which I quickly realized my plane was already headed that way.
 
 The ride to Costa Rica was a few hours and let me tell you how excited I was to see mountains again, real mountains; I knew, even if it was still a dream it was a damn good one. After we landed and got our things we were shuffled around the small airport until we reached our buses and were whisked away to Tres Rios for orientation week. It was beautiful there. We didn’t get to see the three rivers the name boasts about but we saw plenty of romantic city lights in the valley below and spent the better part of those four days bonding over food, soccer, giant moths, lack of language proficiency for some of us and the state of awe we were all still in. Even when it rains in Costa Rica, I smile. Four days came and went and we were once again shuffled out and onto the buses that would take us to our new families. The night before however we celebrates by dancing and showing off our talents and or lack there of. There was juggling and nun-chucks and dance lessons, it was nice to hang out all together in such an atmosphere.
 
The day we got to our family felt to me, and some agreed, like a team reveal day at an orphanage. We were all homeless and going to be completely dependent on our new families for quite a few many things until we got the hang of it…if we got a hang of it. Christopher, Ramona, and I were placed carefully in the boundaries of our new community and in a few short meters, I was home. My new family has a beautiful home, open for family and friends alike; and to me it is quite cozy. I have a lovely mother who is a wonderful mom to her three kids, two boys 17 and 19 and one girl, who is 10 and my best little teacher. My host dad is also a wonderful dad; being able to be an outsider it isn’t hard to tell that there is a lot of love here. I feel akin to the littlest one, probably because we are both growing into own at the same time. My first night was a little overwhelming as they had some family over, including kids and because I couldn’t keep up with the adults, I hung out with them and they taught me some Spanish. The little one also wrote me a note of which I’ll probably keep forever. I am so very grateful for my family here. They remind me of the way things were for me when I was about 14 or 15. There are lives and girlfriends and plans and, well no cell phones in my day ;), but us kids had lives of our own and yet home was where we all orbited each other and the force that tied us together. My family has made me feel more than comfortable, which perhaps I should keep in mind. I feel safe and although I am miles and miles away from home, there is a very familiar feeling, like I really haven’t gone all that far.
 
 Indeed, there is much more of my North American/ western roots here than I planned on seeing and in some ways it makes me sad to see such a heavy influence. Where at the same time, progress takes on many forms and it has been welcomed from what I can tell thus far. People I have encountered are incredibly hospitable, sincere, and willing to help; even when my Spanish sounds more like Chinese for all they or I know. In the mean time, I am learning the language, poco y poco, and I’m finding my way around. Every day is a new lesson, a new adventure, a new story shared and a new one to tell.